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CAVIES 

THEIR VARIETIES 

How To Feed, Breed, Condition 
and Market Them 
















By JAMES E. YOUNG 

FIRST EDITION. 

Price 50 Cents 





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"JIM" YOUNG 



CAVIES 



THEIR VARIETIES — HOW TO FEED, 

BREED, CONDITION AND 

MARKET THEM 



BY 

JAMES E. YOUNG 



Licensed Judge 

Member Board Directors National Breeders Assn. 

President Chicago Breeders Association 

Breeder of Young's Famous Tortoise and Whites 
and Blacks 



Copyrighted 

by 

JAMES E. YOUNG 

Chicago 

1918 



W. A. Brown 

Printer, Engraver and Binder 

5113 Strong Street 

Chicago 



APR 29 1918 ..ggggg 



Contents 

Page 

Introduction 7 

Cavy Breeds and Their Varieties 11 

English Cavies 12 

The Market for Cavies 25 

Housing 27 

Feeding 30 

Breeding _ .; 34 

Conditioning for the Show o7 

How to Ship 38 

Diseases and Their Treatment 39 

Flashes 41 

In Conclusion 45 



Introduction 

Some years ago I visited a friend who had a few 
cavies in the basement of his home. I still recall, 
as if it were yesterday, the strong feeling of sym- 
pathy that arose within me for this poor misguided 
soul, who was, as I termed it, "wasting his time" 
raising guinea pigs. I felt truly sorry for him and 
more so for his dependent family, and I then and 
there vowed that "Father" would never be guilty of 
adding a burden like this to his family cares. To me 
it seemed very plain that there was no importance 
in the raising of guinea pigs. I was willing, of 
course, to concede that children could raise them for 
pets but for "grown ups" to interest themselves, 
was to me an indication of something lacking in 
man's mental makeup. 

This briefly, was my view and this experience 
only strengthened it. I can only plead ignorance 
for such a stand and I am making this confession in 
the hope that others who still think as I thought 
then, will profit by my mistake and become con- 
verted w^ithout the humiliation of finding themselves 
so entirely ignorant as I was. The biggest thing I 
ever did w^as to acknowledge my error and in doing 
so, I became such a staunch defender of the cavy, 
that today, my greatest pride lies in the fact that I 
have been successful in scientifically producing some 
of the greatest cavies that have ever graced the show 
room. I have found that cavy breeding is some- 
thing that requires brains and skill and a lifetime 
study that will still leave many points to learn. 

7 



INTRODUCTION 



In the chapters that follow I have tried to give 
practical information on how to successfully raise 
cavies in a way that will demand prices ranging 
from $5 to $25 each. A few years ago 25c to 50c was 
considered a good price. Today, however, the $10 
cavy is common and there are sales of which we 
have official record, showing that as high as $100 has 
been paid for a single specimen. There are cavies 
worth much more than this, but the owners will not 
sell them at any price as their loss would undo 
years of work in scientific breeding. 

Responsible breeders use as much judgment in 
breeding cavies as is used in breeding hogs, 
sheep, cattle and horses. Cavy raising has become 
a science and to produce through proper breeding, 
the markings and other points the standard calls 
for, requires no little skill. 

The pet stock journals, the pet stock clubs 
and associations and the pet stock shows, are 
largely responsible for the wonderful progress in 
breeding that has resulted in making cavy raising 
an industry of vast importance. The journals have 
been the big means of creating interest and should 
have the support of everyone interested in pet stock 
— support not only through sul)scribing but through 
advertising as well. I have often heard breeders say 
they did not have to advertise because the demand 
was greater than the supply. They seem to forget 
that the journals brought this condition about. 
They are too quick to forget their benefactors and 
they show poor judgment in not continuing their 
advertising. The shows, too, deserve the fullest 
support. They are another means of converting new 



INTRODUCTION 



people to pet stock interest. Only a few years ago, 
one could count on two hands the few men that as- 
sumed the burden of making shows successful. 
These pioneers of the show room are the men that 
have made it easy for us to hold the big exhibitions 
of today. They spent dollars and received only 
criticism in return. It is to these men who con- 
tinued the good work under great difficulties, that 
we owe much. It is they who made possible the 
big show of today witli its 500 to 700 specimens. 
Some of these men are still Avith us and can verify 
the truth of my statements. Roy C. Knill, George 
Eckert and the Blumhagen Bros., are prominent 
among those who sacrificed time and money in the 
early show days for the good of cavies. John Fehr, 
W. I. Lyon, Mead Mayhew and Judge Gibson did 
the same thing for the rabbit industry. These men 
are all in the front ranks today, working with the 
old-time fervor and furnishing constructive ideas 
that steadily uplift the pet stock world. 

We have a National Breeders Association with 
a membership exceeding 4,000, and branch clubs in 
almost every important city in America. The begin- 
ner's first move should be to join the nearest local 
pet stock organization and through them the Na- 
tional. It is all one big fraternity and you are given 
an opportunity to meet other fanciers, exchange 
ideas and compare views. This comparison is edu- 
cational and will result in the use of improved meth- 
ods in selection, breeding, feeding and housing. The 
new breeder is always welcome. It is our earnest 
desire to start him right and keep him right and we 
realize that only by fair treatment can this be done. 



9 



INTRODUCTION 



This is one of the big purposes of the Associations. 
It is the main purpose of the pages to come and if 
the author has through these pages extended "a 
helping hand" that will assist beginners across the 
rocks and shoals of inexperience, he will feel more 
than repaid for the time, effort and money ex- 
pended. 



10 



Cavy Breeds and Their Varieties 

There are several breeds and varieties of breeds 
in cavies. While all breeds are good, it is best to 
center your efforts on one particular breed just as 
successful stock raisers do. Experience has proven 
that people are most successful in raising the breed 
they fancy the most. You need only attend the 
pet stock exhibitions or the frequent lawn shows to 
find a wide variety of breeds from which to select 
the particular breed or variety you admire most. Do 
not make the mistake of trying to raise numerous 
breeds ; the result will be that you will always have 
a lot of cavies to feed and no surplus of any one 
breed for sale, besides the fact that such methods 
usually mean lower quality stock. 

The chapter following takes up separately each 
breed and its varieties, describing the markings, 
characteristics and methods of breeding, feeding 
and housinsf. 



11 



English Cavies 

The English cavy is distinctive in that it is the 
only smooth, short-haired breed. It outranks all 
other breeds in popularity as it is one of the easiest 
to raise and keep in condition. This holds true of 
all its numerous varieties, which are distinguished 
only by their color, as follows: Black, White, 
Red, Cream, Blue, Chocolate, Tortoise and White, 
Tortoise Shell, Golden Agouti, Silver Agouti, Hi- 
malayan, Dutch Marked, Broken Colors, and 
Brindle. 

The Black, Red, Tortoise and White, Cream 
and W'hite English predominate in the show room. 

Perfect Specimens 

The color requirements of the English are : 
Solid and even color throughout the body ; good lus- 
tre free from off colored hairs. I have found brush- 




A PERFECT SPECIMEN 

ing the coat with a line, soft brush adds greatly to 
the lustre. 

The head and shoulders should be broad and 
heavy. The nose should be Roman and not pointed 
or of the rat type. The ears should drop naturally, 

12 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

not falling or hanging down. Do not be discouraged 
if the ears of your young stock stand high as they 
seldom fall or take their right position until 4 to 6 
months old. The coat of the English cavy should 
be smooth and close without any corrugation. The 
eyes of a perfect specimen should stand out large, 
bold and well proportioned. The condition of the 
cavy counts ten points in the selection of show room 
winners ; and unless the specimen exhibited is in 
good condition it is impossible to win where com- 
petition is strong. Condition is of greater import- 
ance than type, for without condition there is little 
type. English cavies must be fat to show type. 
The deep broad shoulders so much desired, show 
only in the pig that is properly fattened and that is 
what is meant by condition as applied to their breed. 

The Black English 

The hard point in breeding the black variety of 
English is to produce a silky, deep, even, black color 
running all the way to the skin and equally dis- 
tributed over the entire body. The presence of 
brown or slate undercolor is considered an imper- 
fection. Such color is most likely to show up right 
in back of the shoulders and breeders find great diffi- 
culty in eliminating it. Many breeders of blacks 
use some brood sows with just a trifle of red in 
them. This produces the rich gloss that is required. 

Size is one of the most important factors in 
breeding. My Blacks were running rather small, 
and to increase their size I mated a Tortoise and 
White sow that is noted for producing offspring of 
wonderful size with my best Black boar. I not 

13 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

only increased the size of my Blacks through this 
mating but intensified their color as well, another 
point that must be considered if one is to produce 
Blacks that will win. The boars from this mating 
must not be used in any future matings, however, 
but the sows can be bred back to the father with 
excellent results, regardless of the fact that they 
have red or white mixture of color. 

Too much emphasis cannot be laid upon the 
necessity of using a solid black boar of the best pos- 
sible type in mating. In choosing breeding stock it is 
very important to select your best specimens and 
dispose of the lesser quality stock for laboratory 
purposes. A few odd colored hairs do not disqualify 
unless they are all in one patch. 

The Red English 

Wonderful improvement in the breeding of this 
variety has been shown in recent years. At first 
they ran very uneven in color, ranging in color from 




PRIZE-WINNING RED BOAR, RED HOT II. 

Owned by George Eckert 

Winner First, Chicago, Winner First and Cup at Colorado Springs, 
Winner of First and Cup at Kansas City 

14 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 



an orange color to anything but the deep red that 
they have today. The feet should be the same deep 
red color as the body ; breeders have found this hard 
to accomplish although at the present writing, 
marked improvement has been shown. The ears 
and toe nails should also be the same color as the 
body. Frequently the ears are dark and while this 
is not a disqualification it is a defect. Breeders use 
some sows with a little white and some with a little 
black in order to produce a richer, deeper red. Poor 
specimens should be discarded ; only the best you 
have should be used in breeding, for it is by this 
method alone that you will improve your stock. 
Other requirements of the Reds are the same as 
discussed under the heading, "Perfect Specimens." 

The English Creams 
A variety that has come to the front very fast, 
despite the difficulty in breeding, due to the neces- 




ENGLISH CREAM CAVY 
Owned by W. L. Crawford, Chicago. First. Chicago, 1915 

15 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

sity of frequently crossing in of a white sow with the 
cream boar in order to produce the deHcate cream 
color that is so desirable. It is hard to maintain 
evenness of color in this variety and it is only the 
skill and science of breeders that has brought about 
the wonderful color specimens to be seen in the 
show room of today. The feet of the Creams should 
be the same color as the body and the ears either 
cream or flesh colored without any dark lacings on 
the edges. Other requirements same as discussed 
under heading, ^'Perfect Specimens." 

The English White 
The pure white cavy has many attractions and 
is among the most popular varieties of the great 
cavy family. Color should be snow-white without 
any cream tint. Feet and ears should match body, 
color and eyes should be large, bold and pink. Black 
eyes are a disqualification. Dark lacing around the 
edges of the ears is common among the whites and 
while this does not disqualify — it is a serious defect 
that should be avoided. Remember that you can 
gain perfection only through breeding from your 
best specimens. Care in selection of breeding stock 
is one of the first requisites of success. 

The Tortoise and White 

The Tortoise and White is known as the "Three- 
Colored Cavy" and the fame for its beauty has cir- 
cled the globe. To me, it is the most interesting of 
all cavies. Its colors come in patches of red, wdiite 
and black. The objective point in breeding is to 
produce as many clean cut patches as possible — 
patches to be equally divided on each side of the 

16 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

body and showing separate and distinct, each from 
the other. To accompHsh this will prove one of the 
most interesting- studies ever undertaken. No two 
pigs are alike and before the mother kindles you 
are anticipating what the next surprise will be. The 
White in the Tortoise and White variety is one of 
the hardest to control in color, as it seems deter- 
mined to stay in one patch, sometimes starting at 
the point of the nose, broadening out and again nar- 
rowing, but always with the connecting link of color, 




"SOME BOV 



Champion Boar — South Shore Country Club 

even though it may dwindle to the size of a thread. 
The requirements for perfect specimens are as fol- 
lows : Patches clean cut and distinct, equally and 
uniformly distributed. Color: Black, red and white, 
even throughout, with no inter-blending of colors. 
The ears may be one, two or three colors. The re- 
maining points are the same as discussed under the 
heading, ^'Perfect Specimens." 

In breeding, the specimens with the fewer 
patches are chosen, providing the patches are coarse, 
clean cut and distinct. It is hard to follow a fixed 
line in this breeding, man's own intelligence secured 
through actual experiments in the mating of this 

17 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

wonderful variety seems to count more in gaining 
the sought for points than perhaps the breeding of 
any other breed or its variety. 

The Tortoise Shell 

The Tortoise Shell is one of the real beauties 
of the cavy family. It is similar to the Tortoise 
and White, excepting it has only two colors, black 
and red. It is hard to understand why it is not 
bred more extensively, for it has many good points 
in its favor and can be easily popularized. Here is 
an opportunity for some cavy fancier to get busy. 
The Tortoise Shell certainly deserves more atten- 
tion, and there is a wonderful opportunity, through 
correct breeding, to add much to their attractive- 
ness. The Standard requires that the color be equal- 
ly distributed and in distinct patches, the smaller 
and more uniform, the better. The remaining breed- 
ing requirements are the same as discussed under 
the heading, "Perfect Specimens." 

Dutch Marked English 

Marked the same as the Dutch Rabbit; black 
and white, blue and white, tortoise and white, and 
red and white. Each cheek is black and a coat of 
black covers the back portion of the body, the bal- 
ance of the body being white, making a straight line 
around the body where the black and white meets. 
This is a hard variety to breed, but it is well thought 
of, and is, without question, a meritorious variety 
when exhibited according to the standard require- 
ments. 

18 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 




DUTCH MARKED ENGLISH SOW 

Winnings: First and Special Silver Medal for Best Cavy, at 

Boston, 1915; First and Special for Best Dutch 

Cavy, at Brooklyn, N. Y., 1915 

Owned and Bred by T. A. Martin, Jr., Midland Park, N. J. 

Himalayan 

Himalayans are coming into their own and 
more of them are seen in the show room of today 
than at any time in cavy history. They are a very 
beautiful animal, their body being pure white with 
ears, nose and feet black. There has been marked 
improvement in this variety in the past few years ; 
there has been some difficulty in getting the mark- 
ings black, as it had a tendency to come brown ; this, 
however, has been overcome to a great extent so 
that today we see many good specimens in the show 
rooms. 

Golden Agouti 

One of the most beautiful of the English var- 
ieties. The perfect Golden specimen has a rich, 
golden brown undercolor with guard hairs that are 
ticked with black, making even overcolor through- 
out. The belly color should be a deep red. 

19 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

It is hard to do justice to this breed in writ- 
ing. Its popularity is increasing rapidly, due to 
the fact that more are being exhibited at the big 
shows, thus giving the public an opportunity to see 
the real beauty and attractiveness of the Golden 
Agouti. With this great English variety "seeing is 
believing," and in all my show-room experience 
I have never heard any other than praise for this 
great breed. Much of this interest is no doubt due 
to the wonderful type and color. 

Silver Agouti 

The Silver Agouti is a light silver shade, with 
guard hairs ticked the same as in the Goldens. The 
belly is of silver hue and should be free from any 




SILVER AGOUTI 
Owned by Condon & Kemp, Chicago. First at Chicago, 1918 

sign of golden or bronze tint. In both the Golden 
and Silver Agouti, the feet should match the body. 
There is no variety that has made the wonder- 
ful improvement that the Silver has in the last few 
years, coming from a cream tinge color to a beauti- 
ful silver. And when of the proper color it is one 

20 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

of the beauties of the show room. The above cut 
pictures one of the best specimens we ever had the 
pleasure of seeing. 

English Brindles 

The Brindles are one of the rarest varieties 
known. The color is black and red, intermingling 
evenly, all over the body and feet. While the Brin- 
dle Cavy is a very pretty specimen, it has not gained 
the popularity to the extent other varieties have. 
Their general specifications are the same as found 
under the heading, ''Perfect Specimens." 

English Chocolates 

The Chocolates are one of the latest additions 
to the English Cavy family, and are attracting con- 
siderable attention. They are a very beautiful 
animal, having derived their name from their color. 
Their color should be uniform all over the body and 
feet. See "Perfect Specimens" for general speci- 
fications. 

EngHsh Blue 

This breed is the latest addition to the cavy 
family, and while, of course, there is room for con- 
siderable improvement, it is only a question of time 
before they are perfected to a degree that will in- 
terest all cavy fanciers. At present they are not 
breeding true, more slate or faded-out black color 
predominating the blue color sought for. It is an 
illustration, however, of the breeding possibilities 
before us. We have only touched the ragged edges, 
compared to the improvement that will be shown 
in all breeds within the next few years. 

21 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

The Abyssinian 

Another fine specimen of the cavy family in 
several colors. It should be large throughout and 
broad at the shoulders. The hair, unlike the Eng- 
lish, should be rough and wiry with as many 
rosettes as possible. The head must be well fur- 
nished with hair, which must in no part exceed one 




CREAM ABYSSINIAN SOW 

Winnings: First and Special at Madison Square, New York, 

and Asbury Park, N. J. ; First, Grand Central 

Palace, N. Y., 1914 

Owned and Bred by T. A. Martin, Jr., Midland Park, N. J. 

and one-half inches in length. The only things to 
breed for are : Size, rosettes and coarse hair. Breed- 
ing stock should be selected accordingly. 

Peruvian Cavy 

The Peruvian comes in solid and broken colors 
and is one real fancy specimen of the cavy fam- 
ily. It attracts wide-spread attention and in proper 
conditions creates considerable speculation as to 
which end of the cavy is the head. This is because 

22 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

the head furnishings cover the head entirely. The 
hair on the Peruvian has been known to grow fifteen 
to eighteen inches long. 

It is necessary to keep each cavy separate, if its 
coat is to grow to its best, as they will barber each 
other if allowed to run together in the same pen. 
They seem to have a mania for cutting ofiF each 
other's hair. Peruvian breeders should bear this 




PERUVIAN CAVY 

Winner of Cups and many First and Special Prizes. The 

property of Miss Daphne Varcoe, Falmouth 

fact in mind as a short coated Peruvian would stand 
little chance of scoring in a show where there is any 
competition. Length of coat is one of the most 
important points considered by the judge. The 
standard allows twenty points alone for length of 
coat, twenty points for head furnishings, twenty 
points for mane and sides, twenty points for texture 
and density of coat making a total of eighty points 
on coat alone. 

In breeding, great care should be used and only 
breed to specimens having good head furnishings, 

23 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

too many of the specimens shown today are very 
weak in this point. 

Peruvian Silky (Angora) 

The Peruvian Silky is very much the same as 
the Peruvian, with the exception that it does not 
have the head furnishings and the hair is even more 
soft and silky. It is raised more for the fancy than 
for market purposes, and makes a very attractive 
pet for the grown-up as well as for the children. 



24 



The Market for Cavies 

Success with cavies lies entirely with the indi- 
vidual. You can not blame the cavy for failure. I 
do not know of any animal that can be raised as 
cheaply — not even barring the alley cat. The cost 
of feed for one year does not exceed 25c per cavy. 

As in other lines of the live stock industry, 
cavy raising has both the so-called "utility" and 
"fancy" market. The utility trade is for experi- 
mental purposes, used in the testing and analyzing 
of serums and antitoxins by laboratories, hospitals, 
veterarian and medical colleges. A market can be 
found by writing any of the above-named institutes. 
The laboratory demand for cavies is enormous and 
it is surprising the number one can dispose of in 
this way. Prices range from $6.00 to $15.00 per 
dozen. The demand is for an animal weighing from 
seven ounces or above, and with proper care a cavy 
will attain this weight in about six weeks. An- 
other market is in the sale of cavies as house pets, 
as it is very seldom that they ever bite or scratch, as 
they are very clean and with little care are odorless, 
hence making a very attractive pet for the family. 

The best prices received is in the sale of show 
specimens and breeding stock. 

Cavy fanciers who live in the city and have not 
the time or space to raise cavies in large numbers, 
devote their efforts almost entirely to producing 
specimens for the show room. To breed cavies 
scientifically to meet the standard requirements of 
the exhibition cavy is a fascination. 

25 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

There is real enjoyment in experimenting with 
the different specimens in an effort to produce some- 
thing a Httle nearer to the standard and a little bit 
better than the "Other Fellow." And so we go on 
from year to year, exhibiting the results of our ef- 
forts from season to season and getting closer and 
closer to the ideal specimen we have endeavored 
through all these years to reach. The big exhibitors 
each year show a steady advance in quality and are 
nearer the "sought for" today than ever before. 

When a breeder wins a blue ribbon at one of 
the big shows — the price for his stock advances con- 
siderably in value. The reason for this is the eager- 
ness with which breeders seek this winning blood 
in order to raise their own stock to the same degree 
of perfection. From this, friend reader, you can see 
the possibilities before you in raising cavies for the 
show room. If you use good judgment in selection 
and mating, you will be rewarded with prizes in the 
shows and there will be a demand for 3^our stock 
greater than you can fill and at prices that will make 
cavy raising one of the most profitable enterprises 
in which you have ever engaged. Remember, you 
cannot get big prices without first making a reputa- 
tion in the shows and advertising in the pet stock 
journals. 



26 



Housing 

Cavies are housed in what are known as 
hutches. The hutch varies from a common packing 
box to the fanciest kind of furniture. One may be 
just as successful with the common box as with 
more expensive equipment, providing, it is sur- 
rounded with proper conditions. In cold climates, 
the boxes are suitable only for use where there is 
heat, usually in the basement, as an outdoor propo- 
sition it is inadvisable except in warm weather. 

The basement should not be used, however, 
if it has any tendency to dampness. Dampness 
will cause pneumonia, and this dreaded disease is 
a sure, quick death to cavies and will spread to all 
your cavies once it gets started. I have known 
breeders to lose all their cavies in a week's time 
through a pneumonia epidemic. 

The cavy is very clean and practically odorless. 
The writer personally favors the indoor hutch and 
has arranged his own equipment in the basement of 
his home. The advantage in this arrangement lies in 
the fact that breeding may be continued throughout 
cold weather, whereas it is impossible to breed in 
outdoor hutches during the winter unless artificial 
heat is supplied. The hutches should be cleaned at 
least once a week. 

Indoor Hutches 

A box 24x24. ten or twelve inches deep, will ac- 
commodate four pigs. These boxes can be arranged 
in tiers, one on top of the other, the door in this 
case must be on the side of each box instead of on 

27 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

top as we have it where there is only a single tier. 
Make the door the full size of each box, this door 
can be made of one by two inch strips covered over 
with w4re netting, hinge at the bottom. When a 
single box is used it is not necessary to have a door, 
as the top of the box may be left open where there is 
no danger of cats, dogs, or rats getting into the 
hutch; these hutches should stand at least 18 inches 




Practical Type of Indoor Hutch. 



off the floor. Another indoor hutch quite commonly 
used is built as follows : The structure is 5 feet high, 
24 inches wide and 6 feet long — larger or smaller 
sizes in the same proportion. With the dimensions 
used here there are four floors ; the first floor is built 
about 12 inches from the ground, this allows a foot 
of space between each floor. The length is parti- 
tioned into three spaces, two feet each. Where it is 
desirable, some of these partitions m.ay be removed 

28 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

so that the young stock and common specimens may 
run together, it being necessary to separate the 
breeding pens. Ventilation is one of the important 
factors and should be considered in placing your 
hutches, arranging them so that a draft will not 
come in contact with the cavies. 

Outdoor Hutches 

To insure protection from storms and cold 
weather, the outdoor hutch must be weather tight 
and as an extra precaution — a box within the hutch, 
where the pigs can huddle together when the outer 
quarters are too cold. This box should be plenti- 
fully supplied with a bedding of prairie hay. A box 
with a hole in one end will do for this purpose. 
Outdoor hutches may be constructed in much the 
same manner as the indoor, with the exception, of 
course, that greater care must be used on construc- 
tion to guard against severe weather conditions. 
This hutch must be storm proof. 

In the summer, pens may be built of fine wire 
netting, using a one-inch poultry netting for the 
bottom. These pens should be built small enough 
so as they are easily moved from place to place on 
the lawn, thus saving you the task of cutting it, as 
well as securing good green food for themselves and 
fertilizing the ground. These hutches should be 
built fifteen to eighteen inches in height and covered 
over with wire netting to prevent cats, dogs, or rats 
from getting to the Cavies. A small tight box should 
be provided for sleeping quarters and a protection 
from storm and should contain plenty of prairie hay. 

29 



Feeding 
Varieties of Feed 

This is very important. Keeping cavies on one 
food will soon have them losing their bright eyes, 
lustrous coats, becoming poorer in flesh and taking 
on a haggard appearance, as they soon tire of the 
sameness in diet. 

It is easy enough to feed variety in the sum- 
mer time. Carrot tops, beet tops, turnips, a few 
cabbage leaves (not too many, for cabbage tends 
to cause diarrhoea), lettuce, lawn clippings and 
weeds from the garden can be alternated in a way 
that will furnish plenty of variety. 

Winter feeding is discussed separately in the 
pages following. 

Nothing but the very cleanest and choicest 
foods should be fed. Musty hay or oats are disas- 
trous. In feeding green food, such as clippings from 
the lawn, or any green food, great care should be 
taken not to feed anything that has commenced to 
heat or spoil. 

Regularity of Feed 

Regularity of feeding should be followed very 
religiously. We recommend feeding twice daily, 
morning and evening, and at a fixed hour, whatever 
hour you have fixed for feeding. Do it on time, 
your cavies will soon know the time and when you 
come near remind you of it. 

Cost of Feeding 

As stated before the cavy can be fed at a mini- 
mum expense as compared to any other live stock. 

30 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

The feeding problem is very simple. In summer, na- 
ture supplies practically everything in one's own 
yard that is required for summer feeding. Lawn 
clippings, weeds from the garden, carrot tops, out- 
side leaves of lettuce, beet tops, etc., in fact, all 
things green appeal to the cavy. That great scourge 
to lawns, the dandelion, is one of their choicest 
morsels. 

Some prairie hay and oats must be fed even in 
summer and it is best to keep the hutches well bed- 
ded with hay at all times. Note the emphasis is 
made upon the kind of hay. This point is called to 
your attention because experience has proven prairie 
hay by far the most preferable. Care should be 
exercised in changing from winter to summer feed- 
ing as too rapid a return to green feed is liable to 
cause bowel trouble. 

Winter Feed 

In winter it is more difficult to furnish a variety 
of feed. However, this can be overcome by occasion- 
ally feeding dry bran making a warm mash, by 
mixing boiled vegetables with it, steaming or soak- 
ing in hot water. Oats, corn, barley, rye, or boiled 
rice make an excellent feed. 

When corn is soaked, it swells to twice its 
normal size. This makes it easy for the cavies to 
eat, and while they are not fond of it to begin with, 
after they have become accustomed to having it 
placed before them they take to it quite readily. 

Keep plenty of prairie hay and oats before them 
at all times. Table scraps, such as dry bread, let- 
tuce leaves, celery tops, apple and potato peelings, 

31 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

or any refuse in the vegetable line are good. Dry 
bread may be moistened in milk to make more palat- 
able. It is especially good for brood sows while car- 
ing for their young. Carrots and sprouted oats are 
the principal green foods for the winter diet. It is 
advisable to buy 3^our carrots in the fall when they 
are the cheapest, storing them in a cool cellar or pit. 
If possible, it is well to raise them yourself. If the 
carrot becomes dried and wrinkled, a good soaking 
in water will restore them to their natural condition. 

Cavies are fond of all roots, such as beets, tur- 
nips, and even raw or boiled potatoes. Mangels are 
also good. All these suggestions are given that the 
reader may be impressed with the necessity for 
variety in feeding if the best results are to be ob- 
tained. 

The writer has been feeding sprouted oats for 
years and has found them very satisfactory. The oats 
should be placed in a bucket about two-thirds full 
and covered over with luke-warm water and allowed 
to stand at least 24 hours, then pour into the sprout- 
ing frames. The writer has a frame constructed as 
follows: Length, 6 feet; width, 18 inches; frame 
made of 1x4 lumber, nailed together edgewise to 
the above dimensions and lathed closely across the 
bottom, allowing the water to drain off without per- 
mitting the oats to go through. This frame should 
stand three feet above the floor. Pour the oats in 
one end of the frame until about three inches deep 
and water once a day. It is very important that 
you mix them well each time you water, until they 
begin to sprout. New oats may be added to the 
tray from day to day so that one end of the tray is 

32 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

ready to feed while the other is just starting. Three 
pounds of oats will make about 12 pounds of green 
food. The best time to feed is when the sprouts are 
about one and one-half inches long, this is just be- 
fore they turn green and are found to be more juicy 
and tender. Water oats just before feeding. We 
have found a light sprinkling of salt on the oats 
about once a month serves as an excellent tonic. 
Any basement with heat is an ideal place to sprout 
oats. 

There are many different methods of sprouting 
and numerous different sprouting frames. It is well 
to inspect the sprouters on sale at supply stores as 
a different sprouter than that described here may be 
better suited to your particular needs. In many in- 
stances wire netting is used as the floor of the frame 
in place of lath, a heavy wire, however, should be 
used as the lighter wire will soon rust out. 

Water 

As strange as it may sound, nevertheless, it is 
true that water is not a necessity if plenty of green 
food is fed. In fact, I believe cavies are in better 
health without water. Certain it is, they do not 
miss it or require it if they get plenty of green food. 

The writer has never watered his cavies and 
I question if there is any healthier stock to be found 
anvwhere and as few losses. 



33 



Breeding 

There are no fixed lines in breeding other than 
to begin with the best possible color and type. The 
judgment of the individual in respect to selection 
and mating is the big factor in producing quality 
stock. Experience is the best teacher and only 
through careful studying and experimenting can 
one hope to learn the many intricate points to be 
mastered. The breeder is confronted with one 
hundred and one different problems in breeding, 
problems that are different with each breeder and 
that he must work out for himself along scientific 
lines applied to the particular case in hand. There 
are, however, several set rules in breeding which 
must be observed if any headway is made. 

A sow should not be bred more than four times 
a year at the outside, and preferably three, if the 
stock is to be vigorous and healthy. In mating the 
male should be strong in points where the female is 
weak and vice versa. If you have a male of exceed- 
ingly good color, the female should then be excep- 
tionally strong in type. 

The color, coat, eyes and bone come from the 
male in most instances. Size and type usually come 
from the female. Never breed a cavy that has a 
ratty-appearing head. 

After the sow kindles it is well to place three or 
four sows with young together, as some only have 
one pig while others have three or four. Poor nurs- 
ing sows, or those that you find produce undersized 
young, should be eliminated from breeding pens and 

34 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

used for laboratory purposes. In this way the feed- 
ing can be equally distributed, as the young will 
take to any mother and the mother will nurse an- 
other's young. 

Frequently there will be a real small, possibly 
deformed or seemingly half paralyzed and weaken- 
ed pig in the litter of young. Where these are 
found it is well to put them out of their misery at 
once, for experience has proved that the small cav- 
ies never develop into any size, and the weakened, 
sickly kind die anyway. 

When the young are three or four weeks old 
they should be weaned from their mothers and sexes 
divided as they will breed at this age if not 
separated. Early breeding is disastrous and pre- 
vents proper growth, and the results are under- 
sized cavies. Size, it must be remembered, is one 
of the most important points of consideration in the 
show-room. The poorer quality specimens should be 
disposed of for laboratory usage and the most prom- 
ising retained for breeders and the show room. If 
you have one exceptionally promising youngster it 
is well to leave it with its mother so as to give it the 
benefit of all the nourishment its mother can supply, 
thus assuring it of every possible advantage that 
will aid rapid development and healthy growth. 
Brood sows that show signs of fight should be re- 
moved to another hutch as a change of company 
usually quiets them. The period of gestation is ap- 
proximately 70 days, the young are fully developed 
when born, and in an hour or so are nursing. 

35 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

Line Breeding 

No better method of producing good, uniform 
stock has yet been discovered than tlie system of 
line breeding practiced by all breeders of pure bred 
live stock. While this system has been termed in- 
breeding, it is not inbreeding in a true sense, for 
only the best stock is used. It is not a case of 
breeding the poorest and weakest of your stock but 
only the best. Line-breeding is the continued mat- 
ing of fathers and daughters and sons and mothers 
for several generations. In no case should brother 
and sister be bred together. Inbreeding is success- 
ful only when healthy, vigorous stock is used. The 
mating of weak stock will prove disastrous. 

It is important, therefore, to keep a correct re- 
cord of the pedigree of your stock. To do this, the 
sow should always be kept separate from the rest 
of your stock while kindling. The writer has fol- 
lowed this system of line-breeding with very suc- 
cessful results. The animals should be at least six 
months old before being bred. 



Z6 



Conditioning for the Show 

In conditioning cavies for the show it is advis- 
able to hutch the stock separately, or in lots of not 
more than two. Plenty of green food should be 
given them during the conditioning period. A small 
pinch of Oil Meal should be fed two or three times a 
week as it gives lustre to the cavy's coat, an import- 
ant point in the show room. As large a variety of 
food should be fed so as to put on as much flesh as 
possible. 

Handle the specimens you expect to exhibit as 
often as possible so that they will become tame as 
they then show to a better advantage. Brush the 
coat every day with a soft brush or rub with a soft 
cloth for a week before exhibiting. 

It is advisable to w^ash White Cavies before 
showing, to remove all hutch stains and dirt in the 
hair, making the cavy appear to much better ad- 
vantage. 

In washing cavies we use the following solu- 
tion : Cut one-half bar of Ivory soap into about one 
quart of water (depending upon the number of cav- 
ies to be washed) ; boil until dissolved, then let 
stand until cool. 

Have two buckets or small tubs of warm water. 
Apply soap solution to cavy, rubbing well into the 
hair, using one bucket to wash them in and the 
other to rinse them in. A little l)luing may be 
added to the rinsing water, tending to give them a 
whiter appearance. Rub dry with rags. 

Stroke frequently with the hand, as it accus- 
toms them to handling. 

37 



How to Ship 

Cavies are one of the easiest animals to ship. A 
Hght, strong box serves the purpose. Plenty of 
ventilation must be provided in such a way that it 
will be impossible for drafts, or by express com- 
panies piling boxes or packages so as to smother 
them. Never ship more than four or six cavies in 
a box or compartment, as where too many are to- 
gether they are liable to crowd in one corner and 
suffocate. It is well to use clean, attractive boxes or 
cases with your name and address thereon. An at- 
tractive, practical box is made as follows : A box 
12x18 inches, 10 inches high, (which will accommo- 
date two or three animals) ; make frame for cover so 
it will project over the edge one inch. This frame 
to be covered with wire netting as used on screen 
doors. The frame projecting over the edge pre- 
vents any chance of a box of package being piled so 
close as to cause suffocation. A few holes on each 
side of the box near the top is advisable for ventila- 
tion in case anything is set on top. A box of this 
size is practical for ordinary shipments, but where 
long shipments are made a larger box is required on 
account of food. 

A coat of paint or kalsomine makes this a very 
attractive case and adds prestige to the shipper. 



38 



Diseases and Their Treatment 

Cavies are not subject to many diseases and 
with proper care, clean wholesome food and cleanli- 
ness in their quarters (which should be frequently 
disinfected) the breeder will experience very little 
trouble. 

The writer does not believe in treating cavies 
that are diseased unless it is diarrhoea or other 
minor diseases. 

Diarrhoea 

This disease is usually caused by too sudden a 
change of food or overfeeding of green food. Re- 
move specimen to separate quarters, feed plenty of 
good prairie hay and oats, with very little green food 
for three or four days. 

Constipation 

Is usually caused by not enough green food. 

Lice 

This is usually caused by unclean quarters. 
Spray hutches well with a good disinfectant and use 
a good insect powder on the animals. 

Cuts and Bruises 

Sponge injured parts with warm water and use 
a good healing salve. 

Paralysis or Rheumatism 

Caused by damp quarters or improper feeding. 
In cases of this kind we destroy the animal. 

39 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

Going Light 

Quite often a cavy, where there are several of 
them together, will go light or apparently has tu- 
berculosis. In most cases of this kind you will find 
the animal is timid and the others drive her from her 
food, her condition is thus caused by starvation. 
Remove the animal to separate quarters and give 
plenty of green food, if no improvement is shown, 
destroy. 

Worms 

Worms are very uncommon, but should they 
appear, a good worm medicine as used for children 
will remedy the trouble. 

Premature Birth 

Quite often this is caused by handling the fe- 
male while she is pregnant, fright, bad quarters or 
overcrowding. We recommend that a female shall 
not be handled after she commences to show signs 
of pregnancy. 



40 



Flashes 

In making- your start, buy your stock from some 
good reliable breeder who has won at the big shows. 
Tell him what you want and how much money you 
have to spend. 



Do not expect customers to run to you at first 
to buy your stock. You must show, win and ad- 
vertise, you will then be surprised at the numbers 
you can sell and the prices you will receive. 



Give your customer $1.25 in value for every dol- 
lar he spends ; it is good, cheap advertising. 



Visit as many pet stock and lawn shows a« 
possible. You will get new ideas and become better 
acquainted with other breeders. 



Do not feed any hay for a day or so before you 
clean out the hutches. It is surprising how little 
hay and feed you will have to carry out as they will 
eat most everything in sight. Throw the cleanings 
to the chickens, if you have any, they will pick out 
every particle of grain that is left. It is also excel- 
lent fertilizer for the lawn. 



Do not sell any stock for breeders you would 
not use yourself. 



Feed the oats in vessels. There are a number 
on the market that it is almost impossible for them 
to waste the feed. 

41 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

Feed brood sows heavy while nursing, also 
young growing stock. 



When you have laboratory stock or poor qual- 
ity specimens dispose of them as soon as possible as 
they are occupying room you can use to better ad- 
vantage. 



You will have to keep continually building up 
your stock. For instance, if your stock is short on 
type get a specimen that is strong in type. This 
same rule holds true in all other points. We have 
sows we keep to improve type and size only. 



You will make mistakes, but profit by them. 
No one can tell when a cross is made what the re- 
sults will be. 



Do not mate your sows for ten days or two 
weeks after the young are weaned. 



Leave the boars with the sows until you are 
sure they are mated. Some breeders use one male 
with two or three females. We have used one male 
with ten or twelve females and had good results. 

Only breed to good healthy stock. Your future 
success depends upon it. 



Do not overcrowd. Sows can be kept together 
while not in breeding hutches, using one large pen 
for them. 

42 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

Boars to be used as breeders must be kept 
separate after six or eight weeks old, as they will 
fight and injure each other. 



In skinning the cavy, cut around the hind legs, 
then down crotch on both sides, cut down stomach 
to point of under jaw, then pull hide down over 
head, cut ears from body and pull hide free from 
body. Salt and lay away until you are ready to 
tan them. Many are tanning the hides themselves. 
"Young's Easy Tanning Compound" is recommend- 
ed. It is a good, strong hide, and can be used for 
many purposes, making nice mats for the library 
table, trimmings, etc. 



Cavies as food. We have never used cavies as 
food, but know a number of people who have and 
they speak very highly of them as having a rich, 
delicate flavor. 



In handling a cavy always catch it around the 
neck and shoulders, but do not squeeze them, rest its 
rump on the other hand. To show a cavy, place 
him on your hand, permitting the hind legs to drop 
between the fingers, holding legs snug in this way. 
Often have people wondered why they would set 
on my hand so nice and quiet. 



How to tell the sex. Quite often this is a puzzle 
to the beginner. In the old animals this is quite 
easy if a person is at all familiar with the cavy, but 
when you desire to wean them at three or four 

43 



Cavies — How to Feed, Breed and Market Them 

weeks old, one must have some knowledge of it. We 
hold the animal with our left hand, holding belly up, 
right hand around rump or rear part of body. On 
the male near the vent is a small projection resemb- 
ling the point of a pencil, place thumb close to this 
and press down pulling slightly forward towards 
head. It is very easy to determine sex by this 
method. 



Do not let your brood sows get too fat. 



If your young stock looks unhealthy and jerks 
head from side to side having fits, this is usually 
caused by too close inbreeding and it is necessary 
that you introduce new blood. 



Keep your cavies where dogs, cats and rats can- 
not get to them. 



Start with only a few, learning how to care for 
them adding more as your learn. 



In publishing this book we have tried to give 
you facts as we find them and not copying from 
other books. If this book meets with your approval 
tell vour friends. 



44 



In Conclusion 

I have endeavored to make these pages plain 
and to the ponit. i am heart and soul in the cavy 
business. I want to see cavies on every farm, on 
every back lot. The government needs cavies for 
experimental purposes, and the cavy breeders of 
America must meet a demand double that in normal 
times. Will you help us to put it over? We don't 
want the cavy to be in the columns that are marked 
"shortage." If I can help you to make the right 
start, if the instructions you have just read are 
clear to you and will enable you to accomplish some- 
thing with cavies I will feel content. On the other 
hand, if you have any criticism to offer, please let 
me have it. If there is anything not clear to you, 
let me know. It will be a |)leasure to "set you 
right," and criticism — well, friends, I love it. 

— James E. Young. 




45 



Tortoise and White Jet Black 

YOUNG'S 

Blue Blooded Cavies 




"SOME BOY" 

Champion South Shore Country Club.—Shown 
Twelve Times and Never Defeated. 

A FEW FACTS 

SEASON OF 1917-1918 

Chicago Coliseum — Largest Class Ever Shown 

In Senior Sow Class of 22 with four entries, I won: 

First, Second, Third and Fourth; 3 Firsts, 

2 Seconds, 3 Fourths, 1 Fifth. 

Detroit, Mich. — On Eight Entries: 

4 Firsts, 4 Seconds 
Greater Chicago — Eight Entries: 

4 Firsts, 2 Seconds, 1 Third. Five Black Entries: 

1 First, 1 Second, 1 Third, 1 Fourth 

St. Louis, Mo.— On Eight Entries: 

2 Firsts, 1 Second, 3 Thirds, 1 Fourth 

HIGH-CLASS STOCK FOR SALE AT 
ALL TIMES 

J. E. YOUNG 

3511 N. Keating Ave. Chicago, 111. 



46 



YOUNG^S 

Easy Tanning 
Componnd 

TAIVS 

All Kinds of Hides 




Rub the Compound Into the Hides once a day for 

four days and the work is done 

A Child Can Use It 

Sold in 50c and $1.00 sizes 



Sold by all dealers or write me 



Manufactured by 

J. E. YOUNO 

3511 North Keating Ave. CHICAGO, ILL. 



47 



LfiS'^^'^^ ^^ CONGRESS 



002 834 328 Jj 



